The famous Syrian Chief Mohamad Orfali has not been able to go to his country for a long time due to the war. The biggest dream of the chef, who wrote a book for the preservation of food culture, is to turn his famous restaurant Orfali Bros into an academy in Aleppo.
Born and raised in Aleppo, Chief Mohamad Orfali lives in Dubai due to the war in Syria. Orfali Bros Bistro, which he founded with his brothers Wassim and Ömer, presents Syrian cuisine with a modern approach. The restaurant ranks first in The World's 50 Best Restaurants list in the Middle East and North Africa list and ranked 46th in the world list. Mohamad Orfali shared his personal journey while explaining Aleppo cuisine on stage at Cradle Of Food. At the same time, he served many dishes other than muhammara, one of the signature dishes, at the luncheon of the conference.
Why is Aleppo cuisine so important?
For millennia, Aleppo has played a major role in trade by becoming a meeting point for convoys from both the West and the East, Europe, India, and China. Not only did Aleppo offer a resting point for those crossing the Silk Road, it also connected the first Silk Road (from Yemen to Africa) and the second Silk Road (from China and India to Iraq). Thanks to this trade network, the techniques, flavors, spices, and many other resources of the local cuisine have been enriched over time. It also offered the people of Aleppo the opportunity to experience the luxury side of cooking. Aleppo residents processed these new dishes with their unique Aleppo touch, satisfying the palates of both locals and travelers from different parts of the world.
Dexterity is very important
Question: What are the foundations of Middle Eastern culinary arts?
Orfali's answer: It consists of two basic parts. The first is cooking and storage techniques. Most of the techniques used today, such as fermentation, salting, drying, pickling, distillation, baking, olive growing, and cheese making, have a history stretching back centuries and have been passed down from generation to generation. The second is handcraft techniques that require dexterity and mastery in food preparation. Crafts such as confectionery and butchery are among the techniques that require a certain skill. Known as a "butchery school", Aleppo is famous for its unique cutting, chopping, minced meat, and flavoring techniques, as well as for making a name for itself with its kebabs and many other barbecue varieties, named after the city of Aleppo.
Question: How is the situation in Aleppo today?
Answer: This is a very difficult question because I actually haven't been there for a long time. The war, of course, took a toll on many areas, including agriculture. Now, there are also problems in finding food in some regions due to earthquakes. Food access is very limited and very expensive. The issue of cultural preservation is also complicated by large and frequent changes in the economy. So that's what I've been trying to do with my book: to ensure the preservation and continuity of recipes that are normally passed down from generation to generation, from mother to daughter.
Question: What are you aiming to achieve at Orfali Bros?
Answer: I think consistency is the basis of Orfali Bros' success. Consistency in what we do, in the food we try to take to another level, and in our efforts to support the community and local producers... But my real dream is to bring Orfali Bros to Aleppo and turn it into an "academy", where young chefs from Aleppo can both gain mastery and from all over the world. to offer classes where chefs can learn about the cuisine of Aleppo.